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The Old Bailey, London’s historic and still operating central criminal court, was the scene this evening of a Simone Rocha show whose collection was flagrantly and premeditatedly planned never to be an open-and-shut case. Instead it was rich in nuance, intrigue and insinuation. “When people see the collection I want them to have license to interpret it themselves” said Rocha at a preview, adding: “I’d never be interested in fashion that’s defining a look or defining how someone should feel.”One fact beyond reasonable doubt was that a core influence was dance. Michael Clark and Pina Bausch were cited as influences.…

The idea of ‘masculine-feminine’ has been deployed ever since Yves Saint Laurent introduced tuxedos for women in 1966—but it’s taken till now for designers to start putting the L into LGBTQIA+ as far as visibility in fashion collections is concerned. In London, S.S. Daley started Fashion Week with his collection about the artist Gluck and Constance Spry, and Erdem’s spring offering was sketched around his research into the lives of the dandified novelist Radclyffe Hall and the sculptor Una, Lady Troubridge, who mostly wore pretty dresses“Radclyffe was most famous for writing The Well of Loneliness, which has become a kind…

If there was an award for the most atmospheric and thematically apt venue at London Fashion Week this season, the Knwls space would certainly be up there. At their show tonight, designers Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault were given the run of the old Central Saint Martins building in Holborn, which has laid dormant since 2011, the former classrooms collecting dust. As a soundtrack of krautrock and Swedish grunge began blasting from the speakers, flakes of crumbling plaster were shaken from the ceiling as if a sleeping giant was reawakening. And while it was the Charing Cross campus down the road…

Mithridate Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Source link

Emilia Wickstead Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Source link

Her decision to present what she called “a styled show rather than a fashion show” was both an attempt to move that needle and an exercise in distancing herself from a sense of obligation to create producible garments. Working alongside Paris-based stylist Taylor Thoroski, looks leaned into Mark’s familiar style vernacular, drawing upon her own dress habits. “Something I’ve learned over the years is that the things that I put down the runway are stronger, in my opinion, when they’re in line with me,” she said. “I’ve been very into not having pants on in the past. So we were…

Richard Quinn Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Source link

Tanya Taylor’s spring collection was based around her idea of a perfect day. For the designer and artist, that would involve painting and cruising between her studio and an art-supplies store on a skateboard. “When you’re in an art store, you feel like all your tools are around; you could create anything. And there’s something about someone on a skateboard that’s pure freedom. It’s like the wind in your hair and the control of where you’re going.” With all this in mind, Taylor’s goal was to create a day-off kind of feeling to the collection; she didn’t want things to…

Aaron Esh Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Source link

Giovanna Flores has an instinctual approach to clothes that is informed and influenced by not only the materials but the process of designing and sewing. She works mostly with deadstock fabrics and vintage garments, and also with the “scraps” that are the natural by-product of making clothes, utilizing a technique she calls “blind fitting,” which she described a few years ago as using darts and seams without representation of the body, and then placing them on the body to fit them. Last season, she held a fashion show at the Pratt Manhattan Gallery as part of the exhibition “The New…